The main draw of the hill, apart from the extensive views, is the rather extraordinary chambered tomb and later cairn, which fills the hilltop and despite much subsequent damage (notably caused by the building of a medieval hermitage and then a radar observation post on top of it) still measures almost 20m across. The original Neolithic chambered tomb has been covered by the later, larger Bronze Age cairn, which accounts for most of the stonework still to be seen. The small intact chamber that can be seen is a secondary cist added when the Bronze Age mound was constructed. I manage to squeeze inside and get back out again without damage to the tomb or (more likely) myself. This is a terrific monument even in its damaged condition and definitely worth coming to visit. It provided us with the perfect location for Midsummer lunch and general chilling out.

Past the topograph and to the southwest of the chambered tomb, there is an even rarer (and earlier) early Neolithic long cairn. Not many long cairns exist in Cornwall and I'm pretty sure this is the only one in Penwith. I didn't know it was here the first time we visited, but the new re-print of Cheryl Straffon's excellent A5 size "Ancient Sites In West Penwith" lists it, otherwise I still wouldn't be any the wiser. It would be very easy to miss this, as it looks pretty much like a natural rock outcrop. In truth, it appears that the natural rock and the contour of the hill have been incorporated into a long, low mound. The rocks form the south-eastern end of the mound. There are some stones along the sides of the mound, which may indicate that it once had some kind of retaining kerb.

I'm not hoping for much from Tregiffian Vean chambered tomb, having only seen the black and white photo in Craig Weatherhill's essential "Belerion", in which only the capstone appears above the ploughed surface of the field. In fact, I'm pleasantly surprised, as there is a visible mound and although the capstone is displaced it still rests on upright orthostats. The general shape of the tomb is apparent at any rate. On the downside, the chamber has been blocked with rubble and the top of the tomb has been used to dump what look to be assorted clearance stones. Perhaps not up there with the likes of Brane in terms of condition, but nevertheless a survivor and worthy of the time spent in a visit.

Escalls cairn sits atop the cliffs, with The Brisons visible offshore to the NNW. The coast path here runs along the base of the cliff, so this barrow is not much visited by the casual passerby, unlike Mayon Cliff for example. It is sited next to a granite outcrop and appears almost a natural feature itself, comprised of large slabs of granite which probably didn't come from very far away at all. When excavated by W.C. Borlase, a small cist was found containing an urn, together with flints and shells (shells may be local, but flint probably wasn't). There's no sign of any of that now, just the outer slabs. Worth a visit and a stop because of its lovely location, where the sky meets the sea and the sea washes the shore. I've come over all poetic, so it must be time to head onwards.

The last two barrows of the day bear no resemblance to each other. The well-known Mayon Cliff cairn, which the coast path passes right next to, is rather lovely. It has a retaining kerb of rounded boulders and the remains of a central cist. A huge longstone lies across the mound, presumably dismounted from a position covering the central burial. Lands End (and its tacky tourist park) is visible, as are the Longships with their lighthouse. By contrast, the round barrow to the NE (assuming I did find it) is simply a low mound, covered in heather and almost imperceptible unless you're really looking for it. It has no visible stonework at all but is in the correct place based on the OS map and Craig Weatherhill's "Belerion" description. It is intervisible with the better-preserved cairn.

The bus drops me off at Drift crossroads and I have a not very enjoyable 200yds or so along the verge of the A30 itself. My objective is the pair of stones to the southwest, sometimes called The Sisters, which I've seen from the bus before but never visited. They stand in a cultivated field immediately adjacent to the A30. I'm fortunate with the timing of my visit, as the crop has obviously been recently harvested, leaving the stones clear of obstruction. Their location is on sloping ground, above and to the west of a little valley that eventually reaches the sea at Lamorna Cove, which is coincidentally my final destination for the days walk. This sloping ground allows views across the farmland to the east and round to the southwest, where St Buryan church tower is clearly visible.

These are two impressive stones, both over 2m tall. The southeast stone is the pointier of the two, with a natural crevice running diagonally across its southeast face and providing a home for snails out of the fierce sun. The northwest stone is patched with the yellow lichen that adorns many of the Brecon Beacons' stones. I'm really pleased to have finally visited this excellent pair, despite the less than ideal road-walk to get to them.

This magnificent stone stands over 3m tall, one of the tallest in the peninsula. It's one of those stones that assumes an entirely different character from each angle, being very thin on the southwest/northeast faces and broad and tapering on the others. The views are somewhat restricted by hedges and trees, and apart from Sancreed Beacon it doesn't appear to point to any other obvious prehistoric sites (I'm not sure if the Drift stones would be visible if you removed all the intervening hedges). Great stone though.

Back on the A30, I head WSW along the verge until the turn for Boscawenoon farm appears. Right next to the farm track, the pointy bulk of Bowscawen-Un hedge stone looms. Despite its rather everyday setting, this is a huge stone. Its triangular shape wouldn't necessarily mark it out as an obvious choice for a standing stone, so perhaps it was erected here on a spot close to its natural setting.

Past the farm buildings (where I was once bitten on the bum by a goose, while G/F made her laughing escape), the tracks heads west and becomes more enclosed – not the overgrown state of a few years ago though. Anticipation builds, as it always does when approaching a circle. I wonder whether there will be anyone else there? It's three days to the solstice, when no doubt the circle will be alive with ritual of one sort or another, but I am in luck today and as I reach the wooden gate into the secluded enclosure, I see that it is empty. Fantastic! I've never been here on my own before, and never in such terrific weather. My memories of summer Boscawen are usually of either rain or hordes of weekend pagans, so this is a real treat. Julian's daughter is dead right; the quartz stone is such a draw. You may be interested to know that the central pillar provides just enough shade to escape from the midday sun if you squeeze right up under it. Time passes.

Situated two fields north of the Boscawen path, this tall and shapely stone stands over 2.5m tall, but is easily missed as it is out of site of the path. It does not stand straight, as the natural shape of the stone curves gently. Truthfully, it's rather phallic looking from some angles. Landscape views are even more restricted from here than from the Blind Fiddler, due to the agricultural surroundings that make up the lower areas of West Penwith.

The fourth of the Penwithian circles, Merry Maidens usually leaves me a bit disappointed. Its easy access makes it busy and also takes away some of the atmosphere, for me. There's no moorland walk, no secluded space, just a field next to the road. That said, the circle itself is lovely and it is very pretty. Today, there are cars parked up and a couple dowsing in the circle. I walk around the circle and renew acquaintances with it, but don't linger.